Step 8 – Softening the Main Light ($30 Scrim) This light is placed directly to camera right and is used as the main light on our subject. The benefit to using a modeling light is that I have a nice little barn door to easily control the direction of the light. So, while we are using a modeling light as the main light, this would look and work exactly the same with the dual light stand used above. Since we have modeling lights sitting around the studio, I didn’t need to spend more money on the work lights for our set. Step 7 – Tungsten Modeling Light (Can use the $35 light used above) To define the right side of the subject, I added an additional tungsten Workforce light to camera right. Step 6 – Workforce Tungsten Work Light ($15 at Home Depot) Don’t worry, the light doesn’t get hot enough to burn the cardboard, though just to be safe, I wouldn’t leave the set turned on while I went to do my grocery shopping. To prevent the tungsten light from hitting the uplit walls, I added on a little cardboard GOBO (Go In Between Object). While we can’t change the first two, we can change the direction of the lighting. Some of which include the heat, the lack of power control, as well as directional control.
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While using work lights is cheap, there are downsides. The next light in our setup is a twin head Workforce Work Light light which we use as a rim light on our subject off camera left. Step 5 – Workforce Tungsten Work Light Stand ($35 at Home Depot) Each is evenly spaced from the corner of the set. The image above shows the placement of the uplights on the floor. We used florescent daylight temperature lights because we wanted the background to be a nice shade of blue, while we white balanced to tungsten that would be used on the subject. We used two Husky Florescent work lights as uplights to bring out the texture of the wall tiles. Step 4 – Husky Daylight Work Lights ($50 each at Home Depot) But, with the wood tile floors we had a simple solution, we simply ran the cables behind the tiles along the edge of the wall then pushed the wood flooring against the cables to pinch and conceal it against the wall. But, for future videos I knew that we would. Luckily, in this video we didn’t shoot wide enough to see the flooring. Step 3 – Wiring the Set ($50 in wires and strips at Home Depot)Ĭoncealing cables on a set is always a challenge, especially when you are shooting wide. So, I pop in J.C., our lighting dummy, to give me a nice example of how the lighting is changing as I add and modify each light. It isn’t reasonable to have a person stand in for 60 minutes as I sit there and mold and shape our light. Whenever I am doing scene setups, I place a lighting dummy where my subject is going to be in order to shape my light. To the attach them to the wall, we simply used 4 pieces of double sided tape per tile. So, yeah, that is where the majority of our budget went as it cost $860. For some reason, these cardboard molded wall flats cost $86 per box and it took 10 boxes to cover both walls. So we purchased 100 square feet of wood flooring tiles from Home Depot (which cost around $200) along with 200 square feet of Seesaw Wall Flat tiles to cover both walls.
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But, we figured that we would be using this set in future videos, so it wouldn’t be a one time cost. Interestingly enough, this was actually where the majority of our budget was spent. The first step was setting up the flooring and the wall tiles. Step 1 – Flooring and Wall Tiles ($1065 Total cost) Samples from the final set of stills – Shot sRAW on 5D Mark II w/ 50mm F/4